Firebird Bodywork progress

[Tony69]

I haven't don't much work on the car recently, here's some pics of my last great achievement in reconstructing the body. I can't wait to continue working on it, but I don't get the chance...

[Johann65]

Some jobs take time, but the reward is great!

[barry]

Looks good Tony - nice work!

Just a word on rust inhibitors / rust converters. Some of then give off fumes when heated that cause everything in the vicininty to flash rust - I've experienced it with those milky white ones that turn purple/black when applied. If this is inside an area that's welded up you won't neccesarily know. (Fumes are pretty acrid though, so you might smell it.
I prefer to treat with a phosphoric acid solution, rinse well & dry & then apply an etch primer like NS5 which will stay intact pretty much everywhere except the back of the weld.

[OldSkool II]

nice work, those are pretty common areas for rust

[Tony69]

Barry, thanks for the advice Unfortunately, the one I used is the milky white one that turns black but I sprayed over it with can QD. I'll try and check for rust from inside boot.
I sometimes use Hamerite, what do you think of it?

[wally]

nice work Tony!

Barry - i was going to mail you asking some related Qs, but since it is being raised here, hopefully Tony wouldn't mind a bit of side-tracking...
what is the best to use on new metal to prevent rust - specially when welding in new panels in hard to reach places (sill, doors, etc?)

i have used NC5 you recommended. also, rust inhibitor would also be good to know.

thanx!

[Tony69]

I'm also very interested to know the answer to your question Wally, thanks.

I've also been thinkng about: What is the best primer to use on a bare metal (and lead\spot putty) body, which can provide good adhesion and protection from corrosion, something that can be followed by MS primer.
I've used Etch in the past, but what about epoxy or urethane? I find etch primer to have good adhesion, but not much protection against rust, i find it needs to be sealed soon after its cured or it will corrode the metal. Hamerite on the other hand has good protection, but not a whole lot for adhesion.
I've never used epoxy\urethane primers, whats the difference? Are they good? Should I use a 2k or is 1k good enough?

I think this is a very debatable topic. We all want only the best for our cars....

[barry]

I'm by no means an expert, but will offer what I can.
I use the NS5 (or similar) single pack etch primer anywhere where I'm going to be welding as it holds up very well to heat.
NS4 (the water based one) offers better rust protection (and can actually go over areas where rust isn't entirely eliminated and it does "convert" rust too. Doesn't really allow good surface finish though, but is useful in unseen areas.
Generally all primers don't seal and will absorb moisture and so need to be overcoated.
On bare metal I like to use a 2-pack etch primer - this chemically etches and bonds incredibly well to the metal. This is essentail over lead, as regular MS won't stick. There are etch primer/fillers like MS, but note that basecoats won't work over these and you'll need MS anyway. I prefer to use the etch primer as a "wash" coat - ie pretty light covering.

In deep, hidden or hard to reach areas I'll often use a short length of tubing (or Q20 nozzle & straw on a spraycan) to get the paint down to where it needs to be.

I like to use a metal prep immediately before painting too. Unfortunately we don't get Ospho here in SA, but the best alternative I've found is "Derust" from Laser Chemicals. This contains phosphoric acid which converts rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate, and leaves the metal with a blueish tinge. Unfortunately my borehole water is very acidic so I can sometimes still get flash rust when rinsing it off (make sure it is properlly dry too before painting)
I add soda ash to the rinse water (which is in itself a rust inhibitor) but beware that this may also cause paint adhesion problems (apparently often experienced after soda blasting)

That's all I got - I'm sure someone will disagree. It seems for every spraypainter there is a different "THIS-is-the-only-correct-method " - and I'm not a spraypainter by any stretch of the imagination!!

[wally]

thanx Barry.

makes me nervous - so much i don't know and don't want to come in 2 or 3 years time with rust back where i have just repaired it!

more info would be appreciated!

[barry]

Wally bearing in mind how little rust protection was done at the factory on most of our vehicles, I think you'll be OK!
Probably a bigger issue is making sure you're doing the right things to get good paint adhesion. Besides the right products, good prep and properly keyed (freshly sanded) are paramount.