Easiest cars to restore?

[syncromad]

To build a 1915 100 HP Beetle engine costs the same as a 380 HP Chevy 350

Oh no... my wife wants a splitty...

and they drive "KAK" with out serious suspension upgrades, i had a few, now have a elkie. same era just better

beetle is a good starter, but you will never get what you spend back, just parts are easy to find, stock 1600 TP motor works fine in a beetle,

good luck, best advise buy the most complete car you can afford, sometimes sourcing parts is a pain

[zahistorics]

MT - simple: one without major rust. Mechanicals are easy to fix by comparison.

So long answer:
Good parts interchangabilty - 1. GM (Chev/Opel/Holden or BOP) has probably the best, 2. Fords within groups (British or German or US/Oz), then BMC and Japanese makes
No rust: Do your research - where do the cars you are interested in usually rust? Is it a notorious rust bucket (Italian cars anyone?)
Spares prices - US big three are usually cheap and plentiful, don't be afraid to import if you have to
Spares availability - no point if prices are cheap if you cannot actually get the stuff in your hands
Complexity - a simple pushrod engine is loads easier to fix than a multivalve with DOHC and bucket tappets
Originality - do you care about originality - if not things get a lot cheaper - Lexus V8 anybody?
Tyre size - some sizes are really difficult to buy - are you happy to swap wheels?
Completeness - buy an assembled car, preferably one that has never been stripped down before - missing engine and drive train OK, bodywork and trim very important

To this add:
Buy what you like
Know your budget both for purchase and works. Be realistic and conservative. Stick to it!
Know why you are spending money - for the kicks, for investment, for resale, for profitable resale? Each has its own criteria.
If you buy a bad car get out, sell it on, look for another

[Bearhawke]

MT - simple: one without major rust. Mechanicals are easy to fix by comparison.

So long answer:
Good parts interchangabilty - 1. GM (Chev/Opel/Holden or BOP) has probably the best, 2. Fords within groups (British or German or US/Oz), then BMC and Japanese makes
No rust: Do your research - where do the cars you are interested in usually rust? Is it a notorious rust bucket (Italian cars anyone?)
Spares prices - US big three are usually cheap and plentiful, don't be afraid to import if you have to
Spares availability - no point if prices are cheap if you cannot actually get the stuff in your hands
Complexity - a simple pushrod engine is loads easier to fix than a multivalve with DOHC and bucket tappets
Originality - do you care about originality - if not things get a lot cheaper - Lexus V8 anybody?
Tyre size - some sizes are really difficult to buy - are you happy to swap wheels?
Completeness - buy an assembled car, preferably one that has never been stripped down before - missing engine and drive train OK, bodywork and trim very important

To this add:
Buy what you like
Know your budget both for purchase and works. Be realistic and conservative. Stick to it!
Know why you are spending money - for the kicks, for investment, for resale, for profitable resale? Each has its own criteria.
If you buy a bad car get out, sell it on, look for another

Well stated.

The Detroit Three RSA variants are the safest and cheapest to deal with since with the exception of RHD specific parts; most of the bits and pieces are easy to find, at least here in the USA.

Chevelles, Belairs/Impalas/Caprices come to mind along with ca. 1971 down Valiant Rebels/Regals (RHD Dodge Darts) and of course ca. 1972 down Fairlanes, Fairmonts (Falcons), etc.

European vehicles: with the notable exception of the original VW Beetle; they can be pricey although I can't comment on older Escorts, etc.

[Moering Tool]

MT - simple: one without major rust. Mechanicals are easy to fix by comparison.

So long answer:
Good parts interchangabilty - 1. GM (Chev/Opel/Holden or BOP) has probably the best, 2. Fords within groups (British or German or US/Oz), then BMC and Japanese makes
No rust: Do your research - where do the cars you are interested in usually rust? Is it a notorious rust bucket (Italian cars anyone?)
Spares prices - US big three are usually cheap and plentiful, don't be afraid to import if you have to
Spares availability - no point if prices are cheap if you cannot actually get the stuff in your hands
Complexity - a simple pushrod engine is loads easier to fix than a multivalve with DOHC and bucket tappets
Originality - do you care about originality - if not things get a lot cheaper - Lexus V8 anybody?
Tyre size - some sizes are really difficult to buy - are you happy to swap wheels?
Completeness - buy an assembled car, preferably one that has never been stripped down before - missing engine and drive train OK, bodywork and trim very important

To this add:
Buy what you like
Know your budget both for purchase and works. Be realistic and conservative. Stick to it!
Know why you are spending money - for the kicks, for investment, for resale, for profitable resale? Each has its own criteria.
If you buy a bad car get out, sell it on, look for another

Thanks for the detailed reply!

No rust - to me this is very important, not only should the metal be sound, but it shouldn't be prone to rust either.
Spares availability - Very important to me. The car must be a reliable daily driver and I would like to pop into a Bera's to get bits and bobs if something breaks.
Complexity - I'm not fazed much. It must just be reliable.
Originality - Not bothered by this in the least. I would however keep things in the family, as it were.
Tyre size - are you happy to swap wheels? Definitely.
Completeness - The style I'm after is a minimum of trim and adornment - so if a piece of brightwork isn't necessary, it will eventually get removed/blanked off

[jmvv]

Consider the budget.

My experience is that it always costs more than what you originally planned.

My R2500 (yes thats correct) Jeep CJ2A purchase that had a leaky carburettor turned into a R50,000 project with new engine, diffs, gearbox, transfer case, suspension, brakes, steering etc.

My R8000 Beetle turned into a R60,000 excercise (and its not done yet) - recon engine, four wheel disc brakes, electric windows, replacement seats, sound system etc

The Opel Rekord that came in for a cleanup for a matric farewell, turned into a R140K full restoration.

My rule of thumb is: It's going to cost at least three times what you told your wife it'll be.

And lastly, don't keep track of cost - it's just going to upset you.

[rourke]

WOW

this was a good question and its so so insightfull.

This means that what ever way you look at it, it will cost you more than what you can sell it for(isolated cases excluded).

So make a decision to make peace with it.


I for 1 in the SA market feel abit cheeted in the sence that we don't have the resources that the USA or UK markets have in terms of skills , parts and money to invest in such projects. then comes the even worst part we don't have as many classic and super cars and even if we did would we have had the money?

For example I read on farrari forum that a guy drove on behalf of his buddy to by a Lambo Jalpa which was 8 hours of driving there and 8 hours back, like it was nothing. Who here in SA has a build thread of a Lambo ? I don't know as I never found something like that.

I have only discovered(here on AMCF) like two or so guys here in SA having the resources to do a Bag setup low rider style on a old car. While in USA there has been cars like that for decades coming.

So as much as I love our styling of cars in our market 1 tends to feel cheated.

Thanks guys

[Johann65]

Consider the budget.
My experience is that it always costs more than what you originally planned.
My R2500 (yes thats correct) Jeep CJ2A purchase that had a leaky carburettor turned into a R50,000 project with new engine, diffs, gearbox, transfer case, suspension, brakes, steering etc.
My R8000 Beetle turned into a R60,000 excercise (and its not done yet) - recon engine, four wheel disc brakes, electric windows, replacement seats, sound system etc
The Opel Rekord that came in for a cleanup for a matric farewell, turned into a R140K full restoration.
My rule of thumb is: It's going to cost at least three times what you told your wife it'll be.
And lastly, don't keep track of cost - it's just going to upset you.

Agree!! If it lacks parts, Stay away if the parts are too expensive! If the parts are locally still on the shelf then OK VW Rear disk brakes have doubled in price!! From R480 to R1200 each

[68barracuda]

mini or beetle