v6 mods

[RUD3BOY]

Guys advice on best mods 4 Ford v6, I wana keep the bottom as stock as possible tho. Car is not used evryday so I dnt need it economical.

[AintSheSweet]

You can do a lot to a V6.....all depends on what your budget is like and what you want from the mods? full time racing or the occasional off the line race.

Either way, you would have to do the bottom end...a good rebore, good cam, gas flowed head, carbs (either interceptor carbs/4 barrel or the twin 38 setup), branches and free flow. If you really want power, then go the stroker way.....there are a few good tuners in Jhb who can do this, but be warned, it comes at a huge price tag.

[rallysierra]

I dont consider myself a V6 expert, but I have built quite a few engines. 2 or 3 standard v6s and my rally cars engine. So I can only tell you what I did and why.

You have to do the bottom end. V6s have large big end bearing diameters (60mm). The linear velocity around these at 6000 rpm is the same as the velocity around a 16v toyota at 10000rpm! So have the conrods resized and balanced. These engine are old and almost always out of round. Buy a set of new std conrod bolts or ARP bolts from Burton power, if you can afford it.

Have the crank, flywheel pressure plate and font pulley balanced. You wont believe how smooth and sophisticated the engine becomes if you balance it. You can also lighten the flywheel a bit. Cut about 10 x 10mm of the circumference to the edge of the pressure plate.

A set 10.5 to AE pistons will not be to expensive and works well. Check the weights between them as well for balance.

Find a nice cam. I have a Lamco 789 in mine and it is a nice fast road cam.

Have the heads gasflowed, and while you are at it, have guides fitted so you can run on unleaded fuel.

A set of branches and a free flow exhaust (does not mean it has to be noisy but at least 63mm)

Carbs like all else depends on your budget. Standard carbs come with 28 or 29mm venturis (its cast on the side). So if you running a sigle carb get a 38DGAS with 29 venturis.

I have a 450cfm Holley on mine (could not find a 390cfm) and it works well. I don't know much about the 2 carb set- up, but apparently it work well too.

Get a electronic ignition. I run mine without vacuum advance. But don't run more than 36degrees total advance. Apparently you can get hot spots in the head between the valves and suffer detonation.

Fit a new oil pump.

If you intend to drive it hard for prolonged periods, fit an oil cooler.

Run a good oil like Castrol edge Sport 20w60.

Dont rev it over 6500rpm.

This is how I built my v6, I have done 6 events of flat out rallying in every gear. Didn't use a drop of oil or water and still goes great and sounds fantastic.

Below is a post I did on another forum when I build the engine.

On 11 June during the PMC rally at Bapsfontein I ran no4 big end bearing. Truth is the engine was not making the power it should on you fool your self thinking it makes more power if you rev it higher, it doesn't! Especially the essex v6 the bearing overheats and then melts. So it was time to build a proper engine, and i have collected some parts knowing this day will come. I just was planning to do it end of the year after the season. Now i had 3 week to the next rally, to get it out, overhauled, back in and sorted.

Stripped the engine, and took it al to Performance Cylinder head in East Lynn pta. Had the crank cut, block re-bored heads overhauled and gas-flowed. Image
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The flywheel I had lightened before, by cutting 10mm X10mm from the circumference where the pressure plate doesn't reach and about 8mm x 6mm from the inside circumference. Brought the weight down from 8kg to 6.9kgs Conrods were resized and balanced as well as the pistons.

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Got it all back and now it was time to build it as the next rally was 5 days away.
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I got a newly grind (from a brand new standard cam) Lamco R789 cam, new lifters from a friend.
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A aluminium timing gear set from him as well.
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Worked out the compression ratio 10.5 :1
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To get rid off those noisy tappets fit a "pal nut" (widely used in the aircraft industry)
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Fitted a 4barrel Holley 450 cfm that I had re-jetted.

Finally all together, now fit it. When I tried to start it the starter was stuffed. Its also been threatening a while. So i got a nice new light weight unit. Still it backfires and after towing it i discovered no4 + 5 plug wires swapped. It runs but very rough and nothing under 2000 Rpm. And then it was Thursday and rally is on Saturday. Placed the dial gauge on the rockers and degree wheel on the crank, max lift found at+/- 110deg. At 9pm the only info i could find was on kent cams website.
Took the front cover off, moved the cam timing on tooth.(marks were perfectly lined up, now one out). Put the front cover on, but still farts, coughs and splutters. In shear desperation I decided to remove the electronic ignition distributor and fit a points distributor.

Eureka! it fired up instantly with the starter and ran smoothly. Took it for a test drive and drove home and back to work with it the next day. The performance seemed ok down below but it felt like one is stretching the motor above 4500rpm. Spoke to Oom Lammies and decided to move the cam timing back to where the marks lined up. Front cover of and back on again.

Now it seemed to be pulling quite a bit better especially at the top end. Drove form Pta to Britz to give a bit of a run in. But there was a bit of a flat spot through out the range if you increase power and i count help feeling it should go even better.By now it was Friday evening 8 o clock and the next day is the Delmas rally.

Checked the ignition timing with the timing light, turns out to be 4deg BTDC advanced it to 14 at idle and suddenly everything feels better. Checked max advance and saw it was only to 28 deg. Decided to put back the electronic ignition distributor. Turns out why it was so unhappy is, I had the wires from the pickup wrong way around.( apparently it then fires on the up curve instead of the down curve). Reset the timing 14 at 1000 and 34 at 6000.

The engine runs fantastic, power right from 2000 and it really pulls well right up to 6500.In fact it will rev further quite easily I just don't want to. Rally went ok, but the car was now a different beast all together. Wheel spin the loose sand was so violent, at one stage i thought the clutch was slipping. Anyway in stage 5 we got the notes wrong on one turn and nearly wrote of the car, likely only minor damage to the front bumper. I stage 7 the left rear shock broke at the bottom where the bush is welded on and that spelled the end of our rally.

Need to sort the weekends damage out, because i cant wait to drive that engine again. Will then post some more photos and specs.Image

2011

[gordini]

Very,very interesting...thanks for posting

[Shaunp]

Awesome info

[V8 fan]

Just read this thread again - I particularly enjoy the post by rallysierra...well done in all the work you've put in to make that V6 fly!!

As mentioned, those Essex-engines are so versatile in the right hands - definitely something made by the pomps which were affordable, made to last and offcourse take the beating

For the enthusiast, one should have at least on of those Essex-driven Ford's in the family

Like many others, we're also part of that 1,2,3 family..........1LITER BRANDY, 2 LITER COKE AND 3 LITER FORD

[Garage]

Can anyone recommend who will be the best (preferably Cape based) guys to speak to on some mild upgrades etc?
I have a 3l V6 with auto box in a Bedford CF that I want to be both a tow vehicle, as well as hopefully being economical enough to use as a daily.
Budget is an issue, so I won't be swapping motor/drivetrain at this stage, just want to make the best of what is there....

[RASSIE]

In my days the auto. need a Richi Dude 73 cam, gas flow heads, branches, flat top pistons (Just on the cir-clip type con-rods available (XR6 Cortina and better compression). 350 CFM Holley 4-barrel and now these days electronic dist. Skyline valves, but not really for towing and consumption. This will be a super strong engine and work from 550 rpm. Slight rough idle but perfect in town. Will be faster than a std. V8 302 Ford.
Rassie.

[FPT]

Koos Swanepoel used to be the guru, I would suggest, but he is retired I believe.

His son, Kosie is running the shop, maybe talk to him Garage?

[IndianaJones]

Garage, contact member KSF (Floris de Kock), he has a vast knowledge of the Essex V6, and is Cape based.
http://www.africanmusclecars.com/forum/ ... 41&t=16187