CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
To get on with the next stages I had to cut the pattern and yes, their was a chain saw involved at one point.....
Nose removed
and turned over and replaced in mold. Took 6 of us to do this.
Nose removed
and turned over and replaced in mold. Took 6 of us to do this.
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Worked up the surface on the nose underface, made the formers for the flanges and waxed it up...
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Last section of nose mould completed
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Had to bribe the mates with beer and wors rolls to come back and to help lift the nose pattern, and we demoulded the nose again. Then moved the nose mould sections to storage. I assembled the complete nose mould and finally I can see inside it.
The dark specs you see in the detail pics are bit of plastacine
The dark specs you see in the detail pics are bit of plastacine
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Then cut the front off the nose, to keep to one side to use later to sort the headlight recess/covers detail, and scrapped the rest of the nose pattern.
Retained the scuttle section of the pattern as I still have to do something about the returns and internal details in the scuttle.
And got on with the tail mould. The door moulds are still on the pattern so I can mark the forward edges of the tail section.
Retained the scuttle section of the pattern as I still have to do something about the returns and internal details in the scuttle.
And got on with the tail mould. The door moulds are still on the pattern so I can mark the forward edges of the tail section.
Last edited by Fred W B on Sun 12 Aug 2012, 22:32, edited 1 time in total.
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Making progress on cutting the rear sections of the doors out of the pattern. This so I can then make the forward facing surfaces of the rear body section that are in the door gap. You can see the 3 mm gap that will become the door gap in the lower pictures
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
making the forward facing surfaces of the rear body section that are in the door gap
Ready to start cutting matt for and laying up the first parts of the tail mold, the inserts for the hip ducts
Laying these up proved to be a bit of a fiddle. Access is difficult, some of it has to be done upside down and you struggle to see what you are doing.
Ready to start cutting matt for and laying up the first parts of the tail mold, the inserts for the hip ducts
Laying these up proved to be a bit of a fiddle. Access is difficult, some of it has to be done upside down and you struggle to see what you are doing.
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Finished the first 2 sections of what will be a 6 piece tail mould, these being the outer face sections of the forward facing areas of the tail, including the inserts that make it possible to form the inner surfaces of the "hip ducts".
After making the insert moulds, these were closed off, and another mould made over them over the full forward facing surfaces. The surface down towards the belt line may be bigger than necessary, I can cut the parts back if needed later. I incorporated a step out block to give a register between the insert and face moulds. The insert section moulds are secured to the face moulds with screws.
The idea is that the full tail part is first made with the insert section removed from the face mould. The open area of the duct is then cut out, up to the join line. The insert mould is than screwed to the removed face mould and a moulding made separately of the insert. The insert part is then trimmed to the join line, the insert part put back onto the mould and the face mould bolted back into the full part mould, so that it positions the insert part in the correct place. The insert part is then bonded into the tail part.
Hope that makes sense, the pictures may help explain what I am trying to do. The insert and face moulds happen to be made with different colour green tooling gel, which make the join line easy to see
After making the insert moulds, these were closed off, and another mould made over them over the full forward facing surfaces. The surface down towards the belt line may be bigger than necessary, I can cut the parts back if needed later. I incorporated a step out block to give a register between the insert and face moulds. The insert section moulds are secured to the face moulds with screws.
The idea is that the full tail part is first made with the insert section removed from the face mould. The open area of the duct is then cut out, up to the join line. The insert mould is than screwed to the removed face mould and a moulding made separately of the insert. The insert part is then trimmed to the join line, the insert part put back onto the mould and the face mould bolted back into the full part mould, so that it positions the insert part in the correct place. The insert part is then bonded into the tail part.
Hope that makes sense, the pictures may help explain what I am trying to do. The insert and face moulds happen to be made with different colour green tooling gel, which make the join line easy to see
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
and lately progress has been slow albeit steady.
The entire tail section has been waxed, and all the parting fences made and installed.
Working now on the further sections of the tail mould, all matt templates have been made, matt cut, tooling gel applied, then once it had gone off I apply tissue, then one layer of 300 gram mat on the surface and flanges, + fillets in the corners, then a layer of 600 and 2 layers of 600 on all the flanges.
Currently working on applying 4 further layers of 600 matt.
Cheers
Fred W B
The entire tail section has been waxed, and all the parting fences made and installed.
Working now on the further sections of the tail mould, all matt templates have been made, matt cut, tooling gel applied, then once it had gone off I apply tissue, then one layer of 300 gram mat on the surface and flanges, + fillets in the corners, then a layer of 600 and 2 layers of 600 on all the flanges.
Currently working on applying 4 further layers of 600 matt.
Cheers
Fred W B
- gordini
- Posts: 5363
- Joined: Tue 08 Jan 2008, 18:16
- Location: Where the whiner in the recliner is....
- Contact:
Re: CANAMSA - Newbie with T70 inspired project
Thanks for the post Fred, nice to see the progress you've made
In my old age...
i drink a tripple,i see double and i act single..
From Malmesbury
i drink a tripple,i see double and i act single..
From Malmesbury
Social Media
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests